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If you use 1/16" thick insulators, then try 1500-2000 Volts first. If your insulators are 1/4" thick, and the stators are plastic coated, you may be able to use 5000V bias. For headphones, where the drivers are practically glued to your ears, 500- 750V is probably adequate bias.

Bias supplies are generally made using a transformer to step up your local power line voltage to 500- 1500V, then converting to DC using a voltage multiplier/rectifier circuit. Voltage multiplier circuits are used in almost everything that uses high DC voltages. You can find a good description of the operation of such circuits in any edition of the ARRL Radio Amateur's Handbook.

Figures 5, 6 and 7 show schematics of voltage doubler, tripler and quadrupler circuits. The names doubler, tripler and quadrupler come from the fact that the output voltage will be approximately 2, 3 or 4 times the PEAK level of the AC input voltage. Transformers are usually rated in terms of rms voltages.

Vpeak = 1.414 x Vrms

 

 

 

 

If you have a transformer that is rated for 117 VAC in and 700 Vrms out, the DC output voltages you will get from a doubler, tripler and quadrupler circuits will be 1980, 2970, and 3960 VDC.

The components used must be capable of withstanding these high voltages, so shop carefully! Each speaker needs high voltage bias, but you really only need one bias supply. If you're on a budget or not sure you want to go whole-hog into this project, start with one bias supply. You may find later that it's more convenient to use two bias supplies (that way you don't have to string high voltage wire all over your listening room).

There are a few things to keep in mind when shopping for bias supply transformers. First, you don't need any appreciable amount of current, so get the physically smallest, lowest cost HV transformer you can find. Don't use neon sign transformers (usually too much voltage and always too much current). You can steal transformers out of old vacuum tube electronic junk, or buy them for a few dollars from companies like Antique Electronic Supply or Fair Radio Sales. If you can't find the exact voltage you want, don't worry about it- you can use the voltage multiplier circuits to get you where you want.

There are alternatives to the transformer/voltage multiplier circuit. Sometimes you can find DC supplies from photocopiers available in the surplus market. Sometimes they are even adjustable. They usually put out higher voltages than needed, but that is easily taken care of by adding a resistive voltage divider to the output.

Here are a few sources for HV parts, power supplies, etc.

 

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You could purchase one or more digital photo frames to display your favorite photos. You may want to have more than one digital photo frame, to for instance, display family photos on one, while you show your travel shots on another. You may want to have digital photo frames in more than one room of your home.

Choose a frame that matches the decor of the room in which the digital photo frame will be displayed. Your display size should be relative to the distance viewers may be sitting from the digital photo frame.

Ensure that you choose a digital photo frame that uses the same kind of storage media as your digital camera and the specifications will identify that for you. Some digital photo frames come with an MP3 player and speakers. How cool would it be to have your travel photos sequenced with the music from the country your pictures were taken. Imagine watching your magnificent pictures of Mexico or the Caribbean Islands with Salsa or Latin music playing to accompany your photo show!

So are you convinced? Doesn’t this sound better than a frame with the same picture, all the time, or digging through albums to view all those pictures you paid to have developed, or even cluttering your space with too many pictures, just so you can show them off? I bet you are wondering where you can purchase a Digital Photo Frame right now. Please check my web site www.AwesomeLCD.com or go directly to my Digital Photo Frame Page at http://www.awesomelcd.com/page/1028912 so you can see what they actually look like and read about them. Have fun showing off those great Digital shots!
A laser pointer is laser shaped like a pen that is designed to be portable and hand held. Laser pointers were originally used to project a dot or point from the beam that can be used to point out items or objects to an audience such as during a presentation. With their increased proliferation and power, the application of laser pointers has grown to encompass uses such as astronomy, construction, light shows and entertainment just to mention a few.

Most laser pointers will have a power of one millawatt or less and will not have a beam that is visible in daylight or well lit environment. The light from these lasers will only be visible when the light hits a reflective surface. Laser pointers with 35mW or more in power will have a beam that is clearly visible in daylight or well lit environment.

Green and Red Lasers

 

A red laser is any laser that emits light with a wavelength in the red spectral region which is approximately 620nm to 750nm. Typical wavelengths emitted by red lasers are 635nm (ruby red), 650nm (lighter red/orange) and 670nm.

Green lasers on the other hand are lasers that emit light with a wavelength in the green spectral region from 495nm to 570nm. The typical wavelength for green lasers is 532nm (emerald green).

Red versus Green laser pointers

The most obvious difference between green and red laser pointers is beam visibility. The human eye is most sensitive to light with a wavelength of approximately 555nm (yellow/green) which makes green lasers much more visible than red lasers. Green laser can appear to be roughly 50 times brighter than red lasers.

 

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