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I have done some additional research and found a contact cement manufactured by 3M that works for attaching the film to the insulating frame. Scotchgrip #4693 is the stuff to use. You put a little on one or both surfaces to be glued and let dry for 10-20 minutes. Then you put the two surfaces together and Voila!, instant bond. The bond is so good that the film will tear long before the glue lets go. Other contact cements may work well also. The only disadvantage is that once you've assembled the driver using contact cement, you have to live with it. If the driver doesn't work, you'll have to build another because you won't be able to tear the old one apart.

7) High voltage DC bias supply (1000-5000VDC, almost no current.) This can be made as a voltage multiplier that works off the power lines. You'll need high voltage diodes and capacitors, a few resistors, a circuit board and a line cord. You can get away with one supply, but one for each speaker is easier to deal with- you won't have to run high voltage wires all over your listening room. See the Bias Supply section near the end of this document.

Optional:
Plastic coating for the perforated metal. I've heard that latex house paint works fine...

Figure 1. Exploded view of a basic electrostatic driver.
Making the drivers:
Step 1. Design your drivers.
Decide on the size and make the frames for the drivers. It is generally easier to make small drivers than to make big ones, but with small drivers you will need a lot of them so mounting them can be a pain. You need one insulator for the front and one for the rear of each driver. Ideally, the insulator frames should be cut from a single piece of insulating material. But they don't absolutely have to be made from a single piece. Be sure to plan and leave room for electrical connections (3 wires per driver) and mechanical mounting. I have built many drivers using different geometries and found that the following thicknesses and bias voltages will result in drivers that closely match the sensitivity of conventional boxed bass drivers without the addition of a lot of attenuation in the low frequency section of your crossover.

The insulator thickness to use is a cheap electronics function of many variables. If you want to reproduce low frequencies (down to 100 Hz or lower) you need to have room for the diaphragm to move. That means thick insulators. You will also need to use high bias voltage and high driving voltages (two transformers) to get reasonable sensitivity.

The mechanical force on the diaphragm varies as the square of the distance from the stator plates. That means that if you double the thickness of the insulators, you need to use four times the voltage for equivalent acoustic output. It isn't easy to make full range ESLs, and they almost never deliver enough bass. You need really huge surface areas to get bass, but that increases the capacitance of the driver and can limit high frequency response of cheap electronic. You can improve the bass by using electronic equalization and mounting the drivers in the corners of a room. There is plenty of room for experimentation.

For midrange/tweeter drivers to be used in a hybrid system, there is considerable flexibility in the insulator thicknesses and spacing, bias voltage, and driving voltages. 1/16" PC board material of cheap electronics is extremely common and low cost so it is almost ideal (except for the difficulty in cutting it) for this application. * 1/16" is easily enough room for the diaphragm to produce ear splitting volumes at frequencies down to 300 Hz or so, using a single transformer to drive each speaker.

Another benefit to using PC stock is that it is usually metalized on one or both sides, a feature that can be very useful when making electrical connections to the drivers. It will be best to have one insulator frame metalized on both sides, and the other metalized on one side, but we can make due with any material, even unmetallized.

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The results given above can be used to put together a voltage regulator, but the calculated value of R2 will not be a standard/stock resistor value. Since the accuracy of the voltage regulator itself will be up to 5% out, and resistor values are not exact, it is common to use a Potentiometer (aka variable resistor or trim pot) for some or all of R2. This enables the output voltage to be manually fine-tuned to provide the exact voltage required.

Output Voltage Tables for Stock R1 and R2 Values
Where a very accurate voltage is not required, it is much easier to use standard (stock) resistors to put together an LM317 or LM338 voltage regulator. Below are tables of output voltages for different combinations of the most commonly found resistors.
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