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Car electronics

3) Powdered graphite, dish soap, or antistatic solution to coat diaphragm. Powdered graphite is available from K-mart or your local hardware store for lubricating locks. It will cost no more than $2 for enough to make about 50 speakers. Graphite has to be rubbed into the film using cotton balls. Dish detergent and antistatic solution will work also, and are easier to apply, but may not be "permanent". I use graphite. Someone in Australia suggested that drafting ink formulated for drawing on "film" (the draftsman's name for polyester) will make a good, easy to apply, high resitvity diaphragm coating. I haven't tried it yet, but applying a colored liquid ought to be easy and make it easy to verify that it only went where you wanted it.

4) Perforated aluminum or steel- You need a car electronics for the front and the back of the driver. It should be flat and have about 60% or more open area (holes). Hole size? The stuff I use has holes that are about 3 or 4 mm diameter. The "rules of thumb" say don't use holes larger than about 1/4". Check your local Yellow Pages phone book for listings under Perforators, or Sheet Metal. Your local hardware store may have some available also. Aluminum is much easier to cut than steel, and it is much lighter weight, but may cost a little more than steel. If you buy from a perforator you can get them to cut the metal to size and roll it flat for you.

5) Acrylic or fiberglass PC board stock for driver frame. Fiberglass is hard to cut (you need a carbide blade), and the dust from sawing is a health hazard, but epoxy will bond to it. Acrylic or other plastics are easier to work with, but epoxy may not form much of a bond to them (contact cement will probably work just fine). I have used both acrylics and PC board and for all it's trouble, I prefer the PC board material. You can get fiberglass from a PC board company- try to raid their scrap pile- and get them to cut the pieces to size for you. We'll talk about thickness later.

6) Glue - Previously I recommended epoxy to hold the ESL together. Epoxy works fine for attaching the perforated metal to the insulator frame. The problem with car electronics is that it doesn't really bond to the mylar film. A little mechanical stress can break the very weak bond and allow the film to peel away. This can be an advantage. If you find that a driver doesn't work, if you assembled it with epoxy it will be easy to rip apart and rebuild.

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A Shunt Regulator is a small electronic component that clamps a power supply voltage at a fixed level. Hundreds of times per second it checks the power supply voltage, and if the voltage is over the limit (set by adding a couple of resistors to the regulator in a small circuit) then the extra voltage is bled off through a resistor. If the voltage is below the fixed maximum, then no current passes through the resistor.

How can shunt regulators be useful to alternative energy generators. Well, for example a solar panel rated at 12V will actually generate up to 20V. If this panel is to be connected directly to equipment requiring an input of 12V, that equipment could be damaged if the voltage is too high. Therefore, by passing the solar panel's generated current through a shunt regulator circuit, the voltage reaching the equipment can be clamped at 12V very accurately.

Rather than dumping the excess power into a resistor and losing it in the form of dissipated heat, it is possible to put it to better use, for example to heat or pump water.

A common shunt regulator used in solar applications is the LM431. This is a 3-terminal adjustable shunt regulator which can have its output voltage set to any value between 2.5 and 36V by the correct selection of two resistors. LM431's are available for example from eBay at just $4.50 for 25.
Below is our automated voltage calculator for the LM317 and LM338 regulators. Simply enter your target output voltage Vout and chosen value for R1 (100 to 1000 Ohms), click Calculate, and the required value of R2 will be displayed.
Vout:
Target Output Voltage
1.5 to 37.0 Volts R1:
R1 Resistor Value
100-1000 Ohms R2:
Click Calculate to display the
calculated R2 value here.

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